Pool Chemicals

Rain, Explained

A little rain never hurt anybody...but a lot can kill your pool chemistry. Most pros have seen a storm turn perfectly clear water cloudy or green, or knock its chemical balance sideways. So, what exactly happens to the pool when it rains?

The answer, of course, is complicated — but understanding some of the basics can make aftermath maintenance easier.

Rain water is not completely pure. There could be anything in the atmosphere at the time, including dust, smoke, industrial pollutants, nitrogen dioxide, sulfur dioxide and airborne organic material that would be encapsulated by the rain water. There contaminants can steal the attention of your pool’s chemicals. The more contaminants in the water, the higher the chlorine demand — and at lowered levels, chlorine isn’t as effective as it should be. Additionally, heavy rains can create run-off that can enter into your pool.

If a storm leaves the pool looking swampy, it can because rainwater can foster the right conditions for algae growth. Simply stated, rain and rain run-off can dilute your sanitization levels which leaves more room for bacteria and algae to grow.

An extra pre-emptive effort will ease the damage control later. Anticipating the effects of a storm can help to quickly put pool chemistry back in range after a storm has altered it. Alicia Stephens, education and training manager at Biolab says, “Don’t just let the pool get bad and then clean it up, if you have the right chemicals in there, it never gets bad in the first place, because it’s just cleaning everything up as it comes in.” Stephens continues, “Always, always, always shock the pool before a storm if you’re able to, that will build your chemistry up to where it’s a little more forgiving of whatever’s going to get washed into the pool during the storm.”

All in all, Colley’s Pools & Spas has experienced technicians and staff who can answer most any questions regarding how rain water may effect your pool’s water chemistry. Give us a call!

How to Test your Water with a Testing Strip

Testing your pool is a regular and integral part of pool ownership. It’s essential to maintaining water that is crystal clear and algae free. It’s also important to maintain a good balance of chemicals in your pool because improper water chemistry can cause damage to your pool and equipment. Beyond that, imbalanced water can cause eye irritation and hair discoloration.

Test at least once each week, more if you are using the pool heavily. You may want to test 2-3 times a week if you are new to pool maintenance until you get used to the fluctuations. It can help to pick one day a week to routinely test your water.

Process:

  1. Use a clean, empty cup

  2. Take the sample in the middle of the pool away from jets and skimmers

  3. Dip container upside down until elbow deep, then take the sample

Luckily, our 4 retail locations (Hamburg, Clarence, Fredonia and Erie, PA) have complimentary, computerized water testing stations so you don’t even need to worry about doing your own water tests! Come in with a water sample and get your water tested by our state-of-the-art ALEX water testing system! An added bonus when bringing your water sample in to one of our retail stores for testing is that a knowledgeable staff member will help you select the chemicals you need to properly balance your pool. As an added incentive, 4 times a year we run a special that is 10% off needed balancing chemicals when you bring your water sample in for testing!

UV and Ozone Systems

What is a UV System and What Does it Do?

A UV system is a sanitation system that uses an ultraviolet light (UV) to eliminate chlorine-resistant micro-organisms with a kill rate of 99.9%. In essence, the UV system uses a powerful lamp to produce UV radiation inside a light chamber.

What is an Ozone System and What Does it Do?

Similar to the UV System, an Ozone system is also a sanitation system. It kills or removes viruses, bacteria, spores, mildew, and fungi. It actually oxidizes the water, which is a safe alternative to chlorine. Ozone systems draw oxygen into the ozone chamber that comes across a high output UV germicidal bulb which results in what is called ozone generation. Simply put, ozone quickly kills the germs it comes in contact with at the molecular level by ways of oxidation. After oxidation is complete, or if the ozone finds nothing to oxidize, it returns to molecular oxygen and dissipates. Using a tube injection method, the ozone flows back into the pool’s equipment, mixing the water with ozone and sanitizing.

Combining UV and Ozone

When combined, you get a sanitation system that works together in attacking and eliminating bacteria, viruses, and even those nasty water-born illnesses. When it comes to traditional chlorine pools vs. UV/Ozone pools, the only major difference is that you typically use about 80% less chlorine in a UV/Ozone pool.

If you are considering a UV/Ozone system it is best to consult your local Colley’s location with any questions or inquiries!

Saltwater Systems for Hot Tubs

In the market for a hot tub? In recent years, saltwater systems have flooded the market claiming to be the “natural” or “chemical-free” alternative to sanitize your hot tub. But are these claims accurate? Are saltwater systems really better? Let’s consider the facts so you can make the best decision when purchasing your next hot tub.

Through a process called “electrolysis,” electricity is used to convert dissolved salt (sodium chloride) into chlorine or sodium bromide (which converts to bromine). In other words, a saltwater system—by design—generates the same chemical sanitizers used in non-saltwater systems. Generating chlorine or bromine from saltwater makes sense in the cool water of a swimming pool, especially if a homeowner struggles with granular chlorine dosing or other chemical additives, such as UV inhibitors. But there are more than a few reasons why saltwater systems are not the best fit for hot tubs.

A salt system in a pool as opposed to a hot tub is not easily comparable. Here are some differences to consider when comparing the average hot tub with the typical backyard pool:

  • The average hot tub, at only 400 gallons, is much smaller than a pool.

  • Hot tub water is much warmer, up to 104⁰F (40⁰C), causing bathers to sweat more and excrete more organics.

  • Less water and more organics means that sanitizer is consumed more quickly.

  • Open pools allow sanitizers to vent (or, “off-gas”) whereas hot tubs are covered when not in use.

  • Unlike most pools, hot tubs have internal metal components such as water heaters, heater elements and jet face escutcheons (the metal rings around the jets).

  • Pools are typically made of fiberglass or concrete, whereas hot tubs have an acrylic or co-bonded polymer shell.

  • Water in an open pool is exposed to more natural UV light than in a hot tub.

This differences are important when it comes to the salt system. Two people in a 10,000 gallon pool is obviously much different than two people in a 400 gallon hot tub. Less water volume means a higher concentration of dissolved organic compounds (such as sweat, skin oil and bacteria) which uses up sanitizer more quickly. So to remain effective, a saltwater system in a hot tub would need to generate—and maintain—a higher sanitizer concentration than that of a pool.

In the high-temperature environment of a hot tub, it is quite possible that a chlorine or bromine generator may not produce enough sanitizer to keep up with demand. In fact, some salt system manufacturers admit you may have to add additional sanitizer to properly maintain safe water! If the generator continues to run without people in the tub (meaning there is not enough dissolved organics to use up the extra sanitizer), it may actually overproduce chlorine for a period of time. “Over-chlorination” may lead to excess chlorine gas trapped underneath the cover. Not only can this degrade foam pillows and the underside of the spa cover to the point of bleaching, it may corrode exposed metal accents (including stainless steel), and/or dull the color of hot tub acrylic surfaces.

When salt is added to spa water, it is not immediately converted into sanitizer (through the process of electrolysis). Many salt system manufacturers claim the amount of salt is at a “minimal level” in the water. However, salt systems require about 1,750 to 3,000 parts-per-million to work, or about triple the amount of salt found in tap water. Salt causes corrosion and rust by attacking metal and breaking it down. When metal components inside a hot tub—such as heaters, heater elements, and jet escutcheons—are exposed to high sodium doses corrosion may occur. This can shorten the lifespan of internal metal components, resulting in poor performance and costly repair bills.

The fact of the matter is that spa water needs to be sanitized in order to be safe. Smaller, controlled doses of bromine or chlorine, an ozone generator, and perhaps spa minerals (or conditioners) to soften the water have been known to be the best current approach to maintaining safe water in your hot tub!