How To Prime Your Pool Pump:

Pool pumps are the heart and soul of your pool equipment area. Without a fully functioning pool pump, water is not moving efficiently through the filtration equipment, or worse yet, its not moving at all. After the winter when lines have been blown out and vacated of all water in the plumbing, it can need a little extra help to get that pump to pull a full prime and run to the best of its ability. Always make sure to check the following small items first before actually beginning the pump priming process:

·         Check the Pot Lid O-ring – Always start here and make sure that the O-ring that seals under the lid of the pump is in good shape with no cracks and double check to make sure it is not stretched out or warn out in any way. Without a pump lid O-ring in good shape, the pump will pull air, rather than working harder to pull the water through the system. We do recommend lubricating the pot lid ring with Super Lube to ensure you get a good air tight seal.

·         Next, check your pump plugs. Typically, there are only two and can be found either on the front or the right-hand side of the wet end housing. Pull the plugs by twisting counter clockwise and unscrewing them. Make sure that the O-ring is on the pump plug and that it also has no damage or cracks in it. Or you will have the same issue of pumps pulling air rather than a prime. If the O-ring is damaged or missing, do not run the pump until you have replaced it. Make sure to lubricate these O-rings with Super Lube.

·         Make sure the pump basket is empty of all debris and doesn’t have any cracks in it or breaks that would allow for debris to have gotten through into the impeller chamber of the motor clogging the impeller. If the impeller gets infiltrated with debris, then it will not “throw” water as it should and the pump will not prime as it cannot discharge water efficiently.

·         Make sure all suction and return points in the pool are open. All returns should not be plugged and the skimmer and bottom drain should be free of debris. If you have valves leading into the pump, make sure they are in the open position.

Follow these steps once you have checked the above items off the list to prime the pump:

1.       Remove the pump lid and clean out the basket.

2.       Replace the pump basket and lubricate the O-ring under the lid if needed.

3.       Using a bucket, dump water into the pump basket area quickly until it reaches the top and begins to flood over the sides. (You can Fill the pump with the garden hose as well, but a bucket is more efficient to fill the pump faster.)

4.       Quickly replace the cap to trap as much water in that area of the pump as possible.

5.       Turn the pump power back on and watch through the glass of the lid as water begins to be pulled into the basket area. If you have a variable speed pump, make sure the rpms are at a high enough level to pull a prime, low speeds will not pull a prime. The prime will usually take a few moments to begin, just be patient with it as you listen to it gurgle and sputter a little. Once water fills the basket, the pump lid will work most of the air out of it. If there is still a large pocket of air in it, then there is an air leak somewhere between the pump lid and the plumbing running into the front of the pump.

6.       For cartridge and earth systems, you will need to open the air bleeder on top and bleed the air from the filter after the pump is running with water in it.

7.       Repeat steps 3-5 if the prime does not take. If you still cannot get it to go, we recommend calling to set up a service call to diagnose the problem.

Green Algae and How To Treat It

Green Algae

 

WHAT CAUSES THE GREEN?

                In most cases, green pools are caused by neglect in attention to chemistry or circulation. The green color is free-floating algae, but sometimes is can cling to walls as well. Neglecting water chemistry or procrastinating with your sanitizer regiment will put you at higher risk of having a green pool.

 

HOW TO RID THE GREEN:

v  Remove the debris from the floor of the pool and brush the pool walls and floor. (Continue to do so as you work through treating the pool.)

v  Adjust your pH back to a neutral 7.2-7.6.

v  With pump running we recommend you add BioGuard Algae Complete dosed to match the gallonage of the pool.

v  Add a sanitizer alongside the Algae Complete from the above step. The Algae Complete will work to open up the algae and make it vulnerable, where as the sanitizer will infiltrate and kill the Green in the water system. It is recommended to follow the instruction of a pool care professional for dosages of sanitizer to add based on gallonage of the pool and severity of the current state of the water system in question. Proper sanitizers for chorine, salt system, or bromine pools are listed below:

Ø  Super Shock or ReFresh (Commonly called CalHypo)

Ø  Smart Shock or Colleys Stabilized Granular (Commonly called TriChlor)

Ø  Liquid Chlorine

v  Continue to run the pump and filter system for 24-48 hours backwashing or cleaning the filters as needed. It is important to have a functional pressure gauge to monitor pressure inside of the filter as it works to filter out the dead algae.

v  Recheck pH levels and adjust as needed.

Ø  Adding sanitizers in larger than normal volume tend to raise the pH in the pool system.

v  If the pool is still green after 24 hours, but lighter in color repeat the sanitizer step using ½ the suggested amount of sanitizer and backwash/clean the filter again as needed for an additional 24 hours.

v  After the pool is back to blue, it will most likely be very cloudy and in need of filtering to snap back to clear. Filter systems need to be ran continuously until the pool is clear and filters need to be backwashed/cleaned regularly throughout this clearing process. If you would like to clear the pool faster and more efficiently, we recommend using BioGuard Pool 911 to clear water quickly.

v  Most importantly, once you have achieved a pool that is back to “normal”, it is important to chemically clean the sand, cartridge, or DE filter. We recommend using BioGuard Strip-Kwik to clean and strip the sand. For cartridge filters or DE systems, we recommend using Jacks Magic Power Blue Spray Cleaner or BioGuard Kleen It to kill any remaining Green found in the filter system. This step is incredibly important to ensure the system does not end up with a reoccurring Green problem.

**NOTE: Biguanide pools need to treat for Green differently than Chlorine/Bromine Pools. Failure to treat them differently can result in damage to the pool and equipment.

 

HOW TO PREVENT GREEN POOLS:

·         Make sure to be running your pump and filter system 10 – 12 hours a day minimum, and make sure this is set to operate during the day. This recommendation of time is based on normal pool volume and pool temperature. Extenuating situations and systems exist that will need to operate for longer durations that this even.

·         Be sure to have your system running efficiently.

Ø  Check to make sure pressure in your filter is at a normal level.

Ø  Check your pump prime is full and water is moving efficiently.

Ø  Make sure to keep skimmer baskets and pump baskets free of debris to keep flow at a normal level.

·         The key to keeping a pool from turning green more than anything, is water chemistry. Be sure to keep your sanitizer level at an optimal level, keep pH levels in range, and keep your Alkalinity levels in check. Failure to keep these three main chemistry components in check will result in pool water and equipment issues.

 

**NOTE: Be sure to read all label directions before adding any products to your swimming pool.

Importance Of Testing Your Water After Opening

Pool opening season is here! You see your pool is crystal clear and you may be ready to dive right in BUT before you do, it is important to have your water tested within 24-48 hours of starting your equipment after your pool is opened.

 

Clear water can still be HIGHLY ACIDIC water. Acidic water can severely damage your pool and its equipment within days of operation.

 

Poor water quality can lead to:

·         Corrosion and damage of pool equipment (especially the components in heaters!)

·         Damage to ALL pool surfaces (vinyl liners, gunite & fiberglass)

·         Discoloration or Fading of Vinyl Liner Patterns

·         Additional, potentially costly, expenses to return the pool to a useable condition

·         Cloudy, murky and unsightly water

·         Swimmer eye and skin irritation

·         AND MORE!!

 

Here at Colley’s Pools & Spas, all 4 of our locations offer COMPLIMENTARY computerized water testing. While your water may look clear and safe, it has been sitting stagnant all winter and may be unsafe for swimming and damaging to the pool and equipment!

 

Maintaining quality pool water is vital to keeping your pool and pool equipment in tip-top shape all summer long. Frequent water tests (we recommend weekly, but at minimum, twice a month) will help you figure out which chemicals you need, which helps increase the longevity of your pool and its equipment and, in turn, SAVES YOU MONEY! Just because your pool water looks clear- doesn’t mean it is safe!

 

Testing your pool water with Colley’s Pools & Spas is easy!

1.    Use a Colley’s water sample bottle or any clean container.

2.    Take the sample away from jets and skimmer.

3.    Dip container upside down until elbow deep, then take the sample.

4.    Bring it into one of our 4 locations for a COMPLIMENTARY water test.

 

Based on the computerized outcome, our pool experts can recommend which chemicals you may need to improve your water quality.

Unbalanced Water Chemistry Can Cause Discoloration